Machine for forming concealed stitches



March 10. 1925- 1,52"9,312

R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING CONCEALED STITCHES Filed Dec. 50, 1920 e Sheets-Sheet '1 Mani: 10, M325 P. E. HUGHES. JR

T'lfiflfi i hfi F5 FORMING CONCEALED STITCHES Filed Dec. 30, 1920 6 Sheets-Shee t 2 March 10, 1925- 1,529,312

RJR. HUGHES, JR

ALED STI TCHES MACHINE FOR FORMING CONCE 6 Sheets-Sheet s Filed Dec. 30, 1920 lllllii ll llll",

March 10. 1925- R. R. HUGHES. JR

I MACHINE'FOR FORMING CONCEALED STITCHES Filed Dec. 50, 1920 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 :i i Mil a"; I

R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING CONCEALED STITC HES March 10, 1925- Filed Dec. 50, 19207 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Patented Mar. 10, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATIENT OFFICE...

ROBERT a. means, an, or UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB- mo Umon' srncmn mcams oomramr, or cmoaeo, ILLINOIS, A oonrona'non or more.

MACHINE FOR FORMING OONCEALEID STITCHES.

Application filed December 30, 1920. Serial No. 434,012.

-- ing concealed stitches which do not show on the right or face side of the material being stitched. In my copending application Serial No. 310,073, filed July 11, 1919, I have shown a machine for forming stitches of the above character, and the present machine is an im rovement upon the machine set forth in sai application.

An Ob ect of the present invention is to provide a machine of the above character,

wherein the needle is so disposed as to penetrate the binding strip at a point within and at or very close to the folded edge so as to hold the binding strip tightly about the edge of the fabric being bound.

Another object of the invention is to provide a support for a sewing machine of the above character, whereby the. machine during stitching is held thereon with the work support inclined upwardly from front to rear soas to facilitate'the directing material being stitched.

A further ob'ect of the invention is to pzpvlde a machlne of the above type with rings for the needle bar wherein the uper bearing is extended to form a housing or the upper end of the needle bar during its reci rocation.

A sti 1 further object of the invention'is to rovi'cle a machine of'the above character wit a presser foot arranged wholly in rear of the folder and needle and having a curved guiding section for the binding .strip at the rent end thereof.

These and other objects will in part be obvious andgwill in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed. r

In the drawings, which show To 'way of illustration one embodiment of t e' invention:-

Figure 1 is a view of a machine embodying my improvements:

Fig. 2 is a view of the right hand end of g of the the machine with the cover plate for @ertain of the vibrating parts removed;

Fig. 3 is a view from the front of the machine, the latter being removed from its inclined support; v

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the machine;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the parts located beneath the work support;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view longitudinally through the needle bar bracket;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line 7-7 of Fig. 9, also showing the needle;

Fig. 8 is a vertical sectional view through the folder substantially in the line of feed;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view showing a body fabric having the binding attached thereto and showing the manner of leading and folding the binding;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view on the line 1010 of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a side view of the presser foot;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of the presser foot showing the presser bar in section.

In my prior application above referred to, I have disclosed a sewing machine for form ing concealed stitches wherein the needle reciprocates in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support. The binding strip is directed to the needle by means of a folder or guide which is so constructed 8 trates the materials, and at the penetrating point the inturned edge of the upper portion of the binding strip is directed acrossthe needle path so that the needle enetrates said inturned edge and the b0 y fabric.

One of the features of the present invention consists'in setting 'ciprocates' in a hne, not only at an obtuse the needle so that it reangle to the plane of the work support, but at a slight angle to avertical lane containing the line of feed. This alds materially in theplacing of the needle so that it will penetrate the inturned part of the upper ortion of the binding at or very close to the olded edge, and thus secure the binding .tightly about the edge of the body fabric.

In Order to provide a rightangle driving connection between the needle bar and the bi the 16ft hand end In a machine of the above type where the needle reciprocates in a line at an obtuse in a plane at right angles to the axis of angle to the plane of the work support and the binding strip is directed so that the inturned portion surrounds the needle path, the body fabric, in order to be bound, must be led to the stitching point in the same general direction as the path of reciprocation of the needle. In order to facilitate the handling of the material, I have provided a supporting base for the sewing machine which is so constructed that the entire ma-' chine is tilted, thus bringing the work support to a position inclined upwardly to the horizontal from front to rear. The presser foot is arranged entirely in rear of the needle path so as to permit the free passage of the body fabric while within the binding strip which in turn is folded about the path of the needle, and the front end of the foot is shaped so as to aid in the guiding of the binding strip a ter it leaves the folder.

The invention may possibly be made more clear by a detailed reference to the drawings, wherein I- have shown my improved machine asconsisting of a bed-plate l carrying a work support 2 and a standard 3 having an overhanging arm 4. The bed plate 1 is supported by a block 5 having an inclined upper face 6 so that the work support 2 is inclined upwardly to the horizon tal from front to rear, and this greatly facilitates the directing of the material through the machine, as will appear more fully hereinafter.

The needle of the stitching mechanism is indicated at 7.. Said needle is carried by a needle bar 8, and the needle bar 8 reciprocates in bearings 9 and 10 carried by a bracket 11. The bracket 11 is formed with an extension 12 which extends the full length of the overhanging arm 4. At the rear end of this extension 4 there is provided a depending part 13. A screw 1-1 passing through the bracket is threaded into the standard 3 and serves as a means for securing the right hand end of the bracket. The left hand end of the bracket is secured rigidly to thelugs 15 and 16.

The needle bar is recipro'cated by means of a forwardly extending arm or lever 17 which is rigidly secured to the outer end of a rock shaft 18. This shaft 18 is mounted for oscillation in bearings 19 and 20 formed in the bracket. Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawings that this shaft 18 has its axis set' at a slight inclination to the-normal plane of the overhanging arm 4, and also to a plane containing the mainoperating shaft 21. As also shown in Fig. 4, the oscillating lever or arm 17 and the ath of reciprocation of the needle bar lie this shaft 18 and, consequently, in a plane cutting a vertical plane containing the line of feed slightly at an angle.

It will be apparent from- The shaft 18 is oscillated by means of a rearwardly extending arm 22 which is rigid ly secured to the rear end of the shaft. On I therefor are thus distributed on opposite sides of the shaft 18. As above noted, this needle bar reciprocates in a line which cuts the plane of the work support at an obtuse angle. In the present illustration of the invention this angle is approximately 135.

The material is fed across the work support by means of a feed dog 27. Said feed dog is carried by a feed bar 28 which s reciprocated by means of an arm 29 cooperating with a crank on the end of the main shaft 21 in the usual manner. The feed bar is also raised and lowered in the usual manner. The feed bar and feed dog have the usual relation to the wdrk support, and feed the material in a direction across the work support, parallel with the end of the Work support and at right angles to ill) lHil

to a looper rocker 32 carrying a sleeve 33 oscillated by means from; the main shaft 21, and thus give to the looper its needle avoiding movement. The looper carrier is oscillated by means of a link 34 which is pivoted at its rear end to a stud 35 carried by one arm of a rock lever 36. This rock lever 36 is pivoted at 37 tothe depending portion 13 of the bracket 11. 'The other arm-of the rock lever 36 is-pivoted at 38 to a link 39, and this link 39 is in turn piv-- oted to the arm 22 at 40, see Fig. 2. The arm 22 is oscillated from the main shaft, and as it oscillates the link 39 will oscillate the rock lever 36 and this will oscillate the looper.

shown t e body fabric F to which a binding strip B is attached. The binding strip is folded intermediate its edges about the In Figs. 7' to 10 of the drawings, I have path of movement of the body fabric and diagrammatically at Sin Fig. 7. In Fig.

I have shown a section through the binding strip and body fabric. It will be noted that the stitches S pass through thebinding strip very close to the fold b therein on the upper face of the goods, and also through the binding strip on the under face of the 44 adapted'to receive the reversed strip and the inturn the upper edge portion thereof. The folder per se forms no part of the present invention, and further detailed description thereof is not thought necessary.

the leading of the binding strip in a direction at substantially right angles to the path of travel of the stri as itis stitched to the body fabric the f lding of the binding strip intermediate its edges, and reversing the same so that said strap is folded about the path of reciprocation of the needle and the path of travel of the main body fabric. The folder is also provided with means for inturning the upper edge portion of the binding strip so as to direct it underneath the needle and across the path of the needle at the point where-the needle penetrates the body fabric so that the upper inturned portion crosses the needle path with the body fabric and will be stitched to the body fabric. The inclining of the needle path to the plane of the Work support and line of feed enables the point of the needle to enter the inturned part of the binding strip at a point at or very near the edge of the binding strip and thus form a tight binding about the edge of the material, as above described. It will be noted that the end 8": of the needle bar is tapered which permits the reciprocation of the needle bar without the end of the needle bar striking the material being directed to the stitching mechanism.

The presser foot, indicated. at 46in the drawings, is carried by a presser bar 47 and is provided with a yielding section 48 normally forced downwardly by a spring 49. The needle enters the material in front of the presser foot. The rigid portion 50 of presser foot. is provided with a cutaway section 51 which aids in guiding the binding strip and directing it so that the folded edge will be held olose'to the'path of the needle as the needle penetrates the inturned part of-the upper portion of the binding strip.

The needle bar 8 extends through a sleeve The essential features .of the folder consist in 52, and this sleeve 52 is provided with lugs with which a link 53 connects, and this link in turn is connected to the arm or lever 17. A set-screw 54, having an enlarged knurled head readily accessible to the operator,

serves as a means for securing the needle bar to the sleeve 52. By turning the setsorew 54, the'n'eedle bar may be quickly released from the sleeve 52, and the needle bar raised to a higher position than it can be raised by the normal operatin mechanism, and this greatly facilitates t e directing of the material through the binder and the removal of the binder from the machine, if desired, and more particularly aidsin positioning the needle for ready threading.

A screw 55 threaded inlo the needle bar engages a slot 56 in the sleeve 52 and holds the needle bar from turning. The bearing 9 is slotted, as indicated at 57 in-Fig. 3. Extending through the upper end of the needle bar is a tube 58 which is held in place by, a set-screw 59. This tube extends out through the slot 57, there being a slotat each side of the bearing, and the tube reciprocates up and down in the slot with the needle bar. The needle thread is led from the supply through a suitable eye 60,'thence through a tension 61, thence through a guide eye-62 to a guide eye 63 carried by the oscillating lever or arm 17 then through a guiding eye 64, thence through the tube 58 to a tension plate 65, and thence through a guide slot 66 formed in the bearing '10 to the eye of the needle.

Inasmuch as the needle bar projects forward toward the "operator, it is desirable to completely house the needle bar during its' reciprocation. This is accomplished byv extending the bearing 9 to a point above theextreme upper position of the needle bar, and the tube and slot construction provides a ready means for guiding the thread by the upper end of the needle bar, although said upper end of the needle bar is housed completely during its reciprocation.

It is obvious that minor changesin the details of construction and the arrangement of the parts may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is 1. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, afeeding mech-. enism, a stitching mechanlsm havin a needle located in a line-at. an obtuse ang e to the plane of the work support and in a plane cutting a vertical plane containing the line of feed at a slight angle, a folder for iding a binding strip and having means d r folding the uppler edge portion thereof about the path of t e needle and for directing said inturned folded portion across the path of the needle, said needle beingdisposed so as to penetrate the binding strip atofthe needle, said needle being disposed so,

as to penetrate the binding strip at the fold in the upper edge portion thereof, said stitch forming mechanism including a rock shaft disposed in a line cutting said plane conlaining the needle at right angles.

3. A sewing machine including. in combination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a stitching mechanism having a needle located in 'a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support and in a plane cutting a vertical plane containing the ine of feed at a slight angle, a folder for guiding a binding strip and having means for folding the upper edge portion thereof about the path of the needle for directingsaid inturned folded portion across the path of theneedle, said needle being disposed so as to penetrate the binding strip at the fold in the upper edge portion thereof, said stitch forming mechanism including a rock shaft disposed in a line cutting said plane containing the needle at right an les, an arm rigidlycarried by the rock shift, a needle bar carryingsaid needle, and a link connect- 7 ing the arm to said needle bar.

4. A sewing machine includin in com-' bination, a work, support, a feeding mechanism, 'a stitching mechanism having a needle located in .a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support and in a plane cutting a vertical plane containing the line offeed at a slight angle, a folderfor iding a binding strip and having means or folding the upper edge. portion thereof about the path of the needle for directing said inturned folded portion across the path of the needle, said needle being disposed so as to penetrate the binding stri at the fold in the upper edge portion t ereof, said stitch formin mechanism including a rock shaft disposed in a -line cutting said plane containing the needle a right angles, an arm carried by the rock sh sleeve surrounding the needle bar, means for rigidly and detachabl connecting the sleeve" to the needle bar, an a link connecting the arm to said sleeve.

'5; A sewing machine includin in combination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a stitching mechanism having a ft, a needle bar, a

needle located in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support and m a plane cutting a vertical plane containing the line of feed at a slight angle, a folder for guiding a binding strip and having means for folding the upper edge ortion thereof about the path of the nee le for directing said inturned folded portion across the path of the needle, said needle being disposed so as to penetrate the binding strip atlthe fold in the upper edge portion therei of, said stitch formingmechanism including a rock shaft disposed in a line cutting said plane containing the needle at right angles, an arm carried by the rock shaft, a needle bar, a sleeve surrounding the needle bar, means for rigidly and detachably connecting the sleeve to the needle bar, a link connecting the arm to said sleeve, said sleeve having a slot there-- in, and a screw threaded into the needle bar and disposed in said slot for preventing the needle bar from turning when released from connection with said sleeve. 7 6. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a needle a needle bar carrying said needle, said needle bar being located in a line forming an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support, an oscillating arm for reciprocating said needle bar, a sleeve surrounding the needle bar, a link connecting said sleeve to said arm, and a set-screw for rigidly and detachabl connecting the needle bar to said sleeve an means for preventing saidneedle bar from rotating in said sleeve when said set-screw is released.

7. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a needle, a needle bar carr ing said needle, said needle bar being locate in a line forming an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support, an oscillating arm for reciprocating said needle bar, a sleeve surrounding the needle bar, a link connecting said sleeve to said arm, a set-screw for rigidly and detachably connecting the needle bar to.

said sleeve, said sleeve having a slot therein extending lengthwise of the needle bar, and a screw threaded into the needle bar and having a shank located in the slot for reventing the needle bar from turning w en released from connection with the sleeve.

8. A sewing machine includin in combiit 9 A sewing machine ineluding iii'combination, a' work support, a; feeding mechanism, anoverhan 'ngarm,-: a shaft disposed in a horizontal p ane-and'at a slight angle to the plane of the overhanging arm,'a

bracket secured to said overhanging arm and;

ina hori'zontal plane and atv a'slight angle to the plane of the overhanging arm, a

bracket secured to said overhanging. arm and having bearings for said shaft, said bracket having bearings for a needle bar, a needle bar located in said bearings and reciprocating in a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support, a forwardly projecting arm rigidly connected to said shaft, means connecting said arm to said needle bar, a looper cooperating with said needle beneaththe work support, means for moving the looper laterally for imparting a needle-avoiding movement thereto, an arm projecting rearwardly from said shaft, and

devices connecting said rearwardly projecting arm with said looper for moving the same into and out of the needle'loop.

11. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, an" overhanging arm, a shaft disposed in a horizontal plane and at a slight angle to the plane of the overhanging arm, a

bracket secured to said overhanging arm and having bearings for said shaft, said bracket having bearings for a needle bar, a needle bar located in said bearings and recipro'cating in a line. at an obtuseangle to the plane of the work support, a forwardly projecting arm rigidly connected to'said shaft, means connecting said arm to said needle bar, a looper cooperating with said needle beneath the work support, means for moving the looper laterally forimpart ng a needle avoiding'movement thereto,- an arm projecting rearwardly from said shaft, and devices connecting said rearwardly pro ecting arm with said looper for mov ng the. same into and out of the needle loop, sa1d devices including a'rock lever fulcrumed on said bracket.

. 12. A sewing machine ncludmg in combination,-a work support, a feeding mechanism, an overhanging arm, a shaft disposed in a horizontal plane and at a slight angle to i the plane of the overhanging arm, a bracket secured to said overhanging arm and having frearwardly projecting arm for oscillating struck there y,- said housin cated in said bearings and reciprocating inv a' lineat -an obtuse angle to the fplane-ofthe, I -.work support, a forwardly projecting arm rigidly. connected to said shaft, meanscon :necting said armtdsaid needle bar, a looper cooperating with said needle beneath the worksupport, means for movin the looper ,-1 f

laterally-for imparting "a nee le avoiding movement thereto, an arm projecting rearwardly. from said shaft, and devices connecting said rearwardly projecting arm with out of the needle loop, said devices including a rock'lever, said bracket having a bear a link connecting said crank pin to said the shaft mounted in said bracket. 13. A sewing machine including in combination,j a work support, a feeding mechanism, a'needle, a needle bar carrying said needle and located in a line at an obtuse an-" gle to the plane of the work support, spaced upper and lower bearings for said needle said looper for moving the same into and so ing in which said rock lever is mounted, a ;ma1n shaft, acrank pm carried thereby, and

a bar, said upper bearing being extended so as to form a housing for the upper end of said.

needle bar during its reciprocation and thus rotect theo erator from being-accidentally having slots formed-therein, said needle ar having an opening in line with said slots whereby the needle thread may be controlled by the lip-[10 0- per end of the needle barf 14; A sewing machine includlng in comb1- nation, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a needle, a-needle bar carrying said needle and locatedin a line at an obtuse angle to the plane of the work support, spaced upper and lower bearings for sa1d needle bar, said upper bearing being extended so as to form a housing for the upper end of said needle bar during its reciprocation, said upper bearing having slots at the forward and rear sides thereof, and a tube carried by the needle. bar and projecting from said 'slots' and adapted to receive the needle thread. 15. A 'sewin machine including in combination, a wor support, a feeding mechanisnna needle, a needle bar carrying sa1d needle, a folder having a folding scroll extending about the'path of the .needle for guiding the binding strip and folding the upper edge portion thereof about the path "of the needle, saidneedle bar being tapered at the lower end thereof whereby the body fabric may be guided well up in the folder without requiring the undue enlargement of the ,folder.

In testimony whereof, l aflix my signature. RQBERT B. HUGHES, JR. 

